Norah waugh corsets and crinolines pdf
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Waugh Corsets and Crinolines
As this is my first pair of stays or 18th century corsets that I attempt with something as conventional as a sewing machine no cardboard this time! I also really liked the delicate structural pattern of the bones. The direction of the boning in a corset like this is very important since it is only half boned, and a lot of the shape of the garment is dictated by the careful placing of bones. It is a half-boned stay, cut from six pieces only, the shaping being given by the direction of the bones. It would have the extra busk and the shaping bones across the front and across the shoulder blades. It might also be fully boned. This corset closes at the back, but since I do not have several ladies to dress me, it made sense to devise a front closure so I could lace myself into the corset.
Very cool, thanks for the tips. I want to start copying the patterns from Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques, and I thought it would take hours to enlarge it I don't know why I wanted to do it on a milimetre paper by hand This is exactly what I do myself!
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Could you please comment on the ease drafted into your simplicity pattern stays? Positive, zero, negative? The patterns unfortunately do not give finished bust and waist measurements. There should be negative ease in the pattern - you want about a 2" gap in the back. Unfortunately once the pattern leaves us, Simplicity make their changes and while the pattern comes out pretty close to our original draft, sometimes they shorten the waist or make other small changes. The best I can recommend is to cut the size recommended on the back of the pattern envelope. I made my stays from your pattern with help from your blog.
A cage crinoline, with metal and cane supports, held together with cotton tape, c. One of the costumes that has been on my list for the past year has been a midth century ball gown. Throughout the s and s, the skirts had been gradually increasing in size with the use of multiple petticoats, often stiffened with horsehair or cording. When the crinoline was patented in , it reduced the necessity for many layers of heavy petticoats, as the hoop did everything that petticoats could not! It also allowed the dress to increase in size much more easily, as all that was needed was a wider hoop. By the mids the hoop began to change shape from the conical fashion of the s to an elliptical shape, where the skirts began to stand out more at the back of the dress.